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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.